Leslie Williams in Inis Meain

Leslie Williams gets the sense of the place that is Inis Meain

A sense of place. That is the phrase that is stuck in my head as I write this review of Inis Meain Restaurant.

The Irish translation is tuiscint d'áit which is perhaps better because it implies a full and comprehensive understanding, more than just a mere “sense”.

Our meal at Theresa and Ruairí de Blacam's Inis Meáin Restaurant began with a bowl of that morning's freshly picked periwinkles simply cooked in a bouillon. Part of the joy of periwinkles is their chewy texture – the chewing seems to emphasise further the flavours of the sea and these just sang with freshness. The bouillon had sweetened these a little, and allied with some generously buttered light brown bread, we felt we knew exactly where we were.

De Blacam's cooking is all about a sense of place. Virtually everything on the menu is grown or reared on the island or in the seas around. If you want the Sea Urchin platter (€45) you need to book it 24 hours in advance to give them a chance to go and pick wild sea urchins from one of the most inaccessible spots on the island.

Inis Meáin is the least visited and least populated island of the three Aran Islands. When I visited first back in the 1990's there was just one boat per day so you had to stay overnight. The fact that you can now take a day trip has increased numbers but you still feel that the middle island has lost less of its sense of itself.

Some of the older women still wear the multi-coloured shawl that was unique to the island but there is also a world class knitwear factory selling last season's cashmere hats for a tenner in the factory shop – perhaps Barneys in New York or Tokyo reduced their order. The Restaurant and Suites building nestles perfectly in the landscape of the island – it seems new and modern but also like it has always been there.

We were on the island in a rented cottage for a week to brush up on our Gaelige blas and to relax, but given that it is not uncommon for diners to fly in by helicopter to eat here we were not going to miss our chance.

The menu is short and simple with a soup and a catch of the day and a few staples such as steak, lobster and scallops. My tuna tartare – raw tuna mixed with capers, finely chopped gherkins and fresh herbs - virtually jumped off the plate with freshness. Caitriona's fresh crab with aioli and some salad leaves was a generous portion of perfect white crab meat with pungent aoili and elegantly dressed salad leaves. The crab tasted like it came out of the sea an hour before and, here's the thing, it probably did.

Catch of the day John Dory was served with some shaved fennel, olive oil and a light chilli sauce. The fish was so fresh it had turned in on itself and the shaved fennel and chilli touches were just enough to add some variations of flavour on probably the best John Dory I have ever eaten.

Lobster Américaine was served out of its shell and the classic brandy and cream sauce was done with a very light touch – the cream, brandy and lobster stock flavours were there to enhance the lobster flavour rather than to obscure it.

Very nearly stealing the show from these exquisite fish was the big bowl of last season's potatoes. There is something about seaweed fertilised potatoes from these islands that is unsurpassed and Pentland Dells seem to grow best here so that is what most people grow. We ate every one and vowed to come back in the summer to taste the new crop.

Vanilla Carrageen Mousse was enriched with a drizzle of Galway honey and had a pleasing old fashioned texture closer to blancmange than mousse. Brown sugar meringues with whipped cream and blueberries, strawberries and chopped mint was also elegant and sophisticated yet incredibly simple.

The wine list is short (6 reds, 6 whites and a couple of sparklers) but with good choices – our Dopff & Irion Alsace Riesling for €30 was fresh and fragrant so worked particularly well with each of the fish, especially given the lightness of the sauces. Similarly our two desserts were light enough not to overwhelm our shared glass of Ch. Liot Sauternes.

Out bill came to €147 which seems a little steep, now that I write it down, but not when I remember the virtual perfection of the food we ate.

Inis Meáin Restaurant, 
Aran Islands,
Co. Galway,
Ireland
t: +353 86 8266026 
e: post@inismeain.com http://inismeain.com/

2 Starters - €26
2 Mains - €61
2 Desserts - €16
Dopff & Irion Riesling €30
Glass of Sauternes €8.50
2 Coffee €6
Total €147