Donal Doherty

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Back in the days, Donal Doherty used to work out of British Airways central at Heathrow airport, motorways all around his office, runways fore and aft of him, working to balance the accounts of one of the world's biggest carriers.

Then he moved back to Donegal, took over the running of Harry's Bar & Restaurant, which had been in his family since 1991, and began to get some really large scale ideas and ambitions.

He is a man who is comfortable at the centre of things. Indeed, he brings the centre to him. Harry's is at Bridgend, a forgettable wide spot at the southernmost part of Inisowen. Except, the truth is that Harry's is at the centre of Inisowen, in terms of food culture, food quality, food commitment. Doherty has brought the best to his door, a formidable achievement in a county which has the most myopic food police of anywhere in Ireland, people who like to stand on your head if you want to do things differently, to do things better.

He has had to struggle, but he's used to succeeding, and succeed he has. Harry's is a destination, not just one of the country's best restaurants, but one of the country's most dynamic, inspiring restaurants. The struggle against baleful bureaucracy suits him, for there is something of the pilgrim making his progress against the odds in his nature: he doesn't expect it to be easy, but he knows he will get there: he has faith in himself. In a couple of years he will be a major national player, and Harry's will be accounted one of the country's leading lights. Then, the powers-that-be in Donegal will acclaim him, as is his due. The food lovers have already acclaimed him, and that is – truly – what counts.

Harry's Restaurant, Bridgend, Inishowen, County Donegal  
+353 74 936 8544
www.harrys.ie