You could call what Wade and Elaine Murphy are doing The Art of the Apposite. Everything in their picture postcard-pretty restaurant in Adare is just right, perfectly judged, in its right place; comfortable in its skin. The dishes Mr Murphy cooks have just what they need – roast garlic cream with Doughmore Bay crab claws; pickled chicory with pheasant croquette; Ballyhoura mushroom and leek velouté with Atlantic hake; toasted peanuts with bitter chocolate mousse. This sort of near-perfect judgement reflects Mr Murphy’s considerable experience, but it also reflects the fact that he and Elaine have found the right space in which to express their ideal that food and service should be subtle, composed and enjoyable. They succeed on every score, and 1826 is a County Limerick gem.
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