It’s become a commonplace to have people tell you that Conor Dempsey’s cooking is their favourite food in Dublin, and that Amuse also offers some of the best value eating in the capital. In his ability to marry Japanese flavours with solid French-style technique, Mr Dempsey has carved out something unique: it’s not fusion cooking, but something altogether more elemental, and altogether more elegant. The cooking seems effortless, despite the fact that the effort needed to produce dishes of such colour, balance and complexity is enormous. He will place nori crisps with sea trout, pair lamb with black curry, put rice milk with oyster, or cod with a dashi butter, and it all seems entirely logical, and smart, and utterly delicious. A great list of wines and a polished, calm dining room further explain why Amuse is so many food lover’s favourite.
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