Bastible opened to such a tsunami of publicity in late 2015 that it’s really only now that one can stand back and state the obvious: Barry Fitzgerald is a smashing cook, and his neighbourhood bistro concept, with its modest decor and high-end cooking, has been a significant game-changer in Dublin. Bastible is the sort of space and the sort of cooking you would expect to find in Madrid: you don’t expect to find it at Leonard’s Corner, Dublin 8. Sticking with a 3x3x3 menu offer, Mr Fitzgerald works his magic in unexpected ways: deer and Douglas Fir rissoles; Coolea cheese dumplings with pickled walnuts; stout and Hegarty’s cheddar doughnuts; bitter chocolate mousse with honeycomb. He loves to parcels up his ingredients, all the better to emphasise his expertise with the texture of a dish, and great wines bring it all home.
More from the wonderful County Dublin
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