Gavin McDonagh has installed a wine bar in his Ranelagh restaurant, and at much the same time he has moved away from the “small plates” concept that characterised the restaurant’s offering since they opened three years ago. Today, you can choose between the five-course tasting menu, and the a la carte, both of them packed with superbly sourced ingredients. Whilst his food is quintessentially modern, McDonagh remains something of a traditionalist: he loves the cheffy techniques involved in veloutés, and terrines, and consommés, and Parmesan custards. Above all, he delivers these dishes with an utter pride in his work, and you will leave having been wowed! by simple things like wonderful brioche (of course), or chicken liver parfait, or mashed potato, or fermented beetroot. Mr McDonagh knows the devil is in the detail.
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