Peter Greany and Maeve Moore offer simple and beautifully thought-through food in the elegant, high-ceilinged Foodworks. Maybe it’s because a lot of the foods that they use come straight from their own farm and polytunnel, just outside the city, that they offer ingredients in a style that many modern cooks would describe as unadorned – pork belly with apple sauce and kohlrabi salad; char-grilled Hereford steak with mushroom rarebit; crispy half duck with red cabbage and orange jus. The food is modern only in the sense of offering clean eating, because Mr Greany’s heart really lies with the classics: duck liver pate with Madeira jelly; spit-roast chicken with salsa verde; braised beef with carrot purée; monkfish with cauliflower and capers. Grown-up, subtle, modest food in a lovely room, in Ireland’s loveliest city.
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