Forest & Marcy
Ciaran Sweeney’s fermented potato bread, served with a bacon cream and shredded bacon and cabbage, was one of the breakthrough dishes of the last year. In creating it, Mr Sweeney fused boxty and fadge and soda bread, and made something unique and distinct. It’s just one example of the small plates he likes to cook in the tiny space of Forest & Marcy, sister restaurant to Dublin’s lauded Forest Avenue, where Mr Sweeney cut his teeth. F&M isn’t much more than a bar, with a few adjacent tables, but it’s room enough for unusual pairings such as mussels with potato, sea lettuce and pickled sea spaghetti; coconut with cod, peas and asparagus; goat’s curd with guanciale; duck with pistachio; dill with white chocolate. The crew make it all work, and make it all seem logical.
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