We need to borrow a line from Bob Dylan’s 1964 song, My Back Pages, to explain where Martin Bealin is at, in Dingle’s Global Village restaurant.
“I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now”, he wrote, and Dylan's refrain defines Martin Bealin’s cooking as he moves into his confident middle age. He used to be quite controlled and quite conventional as a chef. Now he's as unruly as an adolescent. He puts smoked potato with organic Kerry saddleback pork. He puts pickled wild leek with brill. He uses beets and vodka to cure mackerel, and adds some seaweed and kohlrabi to the dish so that you are suddenly in Helsinki-sur-Dingle. It's not only brilliant, it's charming, as the chef has discovered a hidden youthfulness, and realises that he is so much younger than he used to be.
More along the Kerry coast
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