Despite all the on-trend techniques, ingredients and styles involved in Bryan McCarthy’s cooking – strawberry textures; black cabbage; black pudding dumplings; pickled beets; sea vegetables – there is never any doubt that every plate he sends out in Greenes Restaurant, on Cork’s MacCurtain Street, is his, and his alone. He follows fashions, yet his food manages to remain very personal, and timeless. He creates a weave of ingredients on the plate – feather blade of Hereford beef with carrot purée, kale, Paris mushrooms; caramelised shallot jus and pickled beetroot is not untypical – but his goal is always the harmonious interaction of every ingredient, plus the fact that the plate should be pretty as all get out. Mr McCarthy is a very fine chef, and an excellent team back him and his kitchen to the hilt.
More from the wonderful County Cork
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