Donal Doherty isn’t a man to stand still. Having built the weekend market at Harry’s into a whizz-bang success with a brilliant array of producers – Slow Food Co sourdough breads; Carlan Foods sweet things; Hamilton Farm rare-breed pork; Donegal shellfish; Greencastle fish; Dexter beef from Marshalls; McArthur’s lamb; Dermot Carey’s organic vegetables – 2014 has seen even more changes to the style and operation of Harry’s. There will be a new food offering in a re-built bar area which will feature a meat hanging room, and probably a roving food operation touring the coastal towns. Best of all, local legend Derek Creagh has arrived in the kitchen, and has already fire-started the menus with his vivid, focussed modern cooking, his signature style visited on the best Inisowen ingredients on an Inisowen menu that offers superlative foods with superlative tastes – turnip soup with toasted hazelnuts; asparagus and crab tart with beetroot salad and walnuts; lamb loin and braised neck with vegetables, Kinnegar ale and potato; red mullet, chorizo, squid and chickpea stew with wild garlic; garden rhubarb and lemon. The tastes and textures are vivid, bracing and beautiful, and Mr Doherty is just the best host. Value for money is pretty much unsurpassed, and Harry's is an All-Ireland champion.
More along the Donegal coast
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