Kevin Murphy is an artist by training and, as a chef, he can’t shake off that artistic background. As a cook, he is an Impressionist. His food is designed to provoke dozens, scores, hundreds, of sense impressions. His palette is the peninsula of Dingle, and he culls from hill and sea and shore – chickweed; unripe blackberries; wild sorrel; hazelnuts; buttermilk; salted pollock; Kerry lamb. His brilliance lies in his arrangement of these ingredients, all the better to provoke you with flavours, and taste associations – monkfish liver with unripe blackberries and chickweed; foraged broth of land and sea with a Glenbeigh oyster; lamb with fermented root vegetables and wild garlic; Crozier Blue with peated blackberry. It’s thrilling work, beautifully executed, and served with quiet Kerry grace.
More along the Kerry coast
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