It might surprise visitors to Bruce Mulcahy’s restaurant in 2017, who will encounter a clubby wood-panelled series of rooms, and then choose from a menu offering classic dishes such as steak with onion rings, beef Wellington, and sole with brown butter, to learn that when he first opened in Kenmare, twenty one years ago, Mr Mulcahy was a punky, culinary enfant terrible. Sure, he has matured and mellowed, but that punky spirit is still there in his food, which explains why the tastes and textures are so vivid and precise. Dishes like prawn and lobster boudin with lobster jus, pork with apple textures, or halibut with clam cream are just the pleasure principle writ large, and Laura Mulcahy and her team manage these svelte rooms with cool assurance.
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More along the Kerry coast
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