What chef-patron Sunil Ghai does in Pickle is simple: he takes basic things – chicken thighs; rice; lamb shank; prawns; goat mince; kulfi – and through complex, finessed, experienced technique, he transforms them utterly. The dishes hide the effort needed to create them, and simply offer powerful tastes and textures – kernels of sweetcorn and cashews with chicken; avocado pickle with grilled prawns, intensified with a wasabi yogurt and almonds; the deep sour note in lamb vindaloo; the sweet resonance of marrowbone in the lamb; the crisp bite of home-made mango pickle with pillowy, delicate pooris; the unforgettable kali dal. It’s a masterly performance, and such red-hot cooking has made Pickle one of the biggest hits of the year in Dublin. Benny Jacob and his crew at front of house make it all seem effortless.
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