Chef-proprietor Kevin Aherne oversees both Sage Restaurant, and the more informal Greenroom, in the centre of Midleton. In Sage he has pioneered a 12-mile locavore menu and made it work, thanks to a great network of suppliers and thanks to his own formidable technical skills. He’s a chef who will put corned beef alongside cod, serves his own black pudding with celeri remoulade, and makes smoked mash to go with beef cheeks. He is a chef with formidable energy, ambition and ability and, as the restaurant has matured, his food has gotten simpler, purer, more focused on the impact he can make with his ingredients. Of course, he can knock out sirloin with chips and bearnaise, but it’s with the wilder stuff – scallops with duck broth; monkfish with shiitake and fish cream; hay-smoked duck with pear – that you see the true measure of a real original.
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