Zuni Townhouse is the kind of destination you’d hope to find in Paris, so exceptionally and cosily does it fit into Killkenny’s idiosyncratic Patrick Street. This little boutique hotel is a definition of class, an institution which is confident in its modernity. The cooking in Zuni can be defined as fine dining, yet there are times when it isn’t: it also likes to be punchy and funky and to get as much fun on the plate as possible, so scallops come with chorizo, spinach and a red pepper dressing and a lime creme fraiche, and excellent hake has courgettes with salsa verde. In terms of accommodation, Zuni is sweet and simple, and the monochrome modernist bedrooms are intimate spaces. Breakfast is simple and succeeds because of using quality ingredients – excellent coffee to start; beautifully made French toast that goes the extra mile with sourdough bread; and chilli eggs. S’wonderful.
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